Science and sources

Every number in saddlebag is an estimate worked out from what you enter. This page says how each one is worked out and what it rests on: published research, a published model, or saddlebag's own estimate where no study gives the number.

How hard a climb will be

Watts, speed and gears

Published model

The watts each slope asks for at your speed: lifting you and the bike against gravity, rolling resistance from the tyres, and air drag. The same sum gives your speed in each gear and the gear-by-grade chart.

Drivetrain losses are left out, so the watts you need on the road run a little higher. Rolling resistance and drag start from typical values for your bike and tyres, not measured ones.

Your reserve above FTP

Published model

Above your FTP you spend from a limited reserve of work (W′); below it the reserve refills. saddlebag tracks it climb by climb to find where you would run dry and whether you can make it at all.

A simplified version: FTP stands in for critical power, the reserve's size scales with FTP, and it refills at a steady rate rather than the published curve.

How long you can hold it

saddlebag's estimate

For the finish time, saddlebag assumes you can average about 83% of your FTP over an hour's ride, 74% over two hours and 65% over four.

A coaching rule of thumb, not from a study.

Easy, Steady, Hard, Too hard

saddlebag's estimate

Easy is up to your FTP, Steady up to 110% of it, Hard above that. Too hard means you could not keep the bike moving up the climb, even in your easiest gear. A route's verdict is its hardest climb.

These cut-offs are saddlebag's own.

Finding the climbs

saddlebag's estimate

A climb starts where the road rises 3% or more and counts if it gains at least 20 m over 300 m. Elevation is smoothed, and rises under 3 m are not counted, the way Strava and Komoot count climbing.

These thresholds are saddlebag's own.

Wind and weather

Data source

The forecast for the hour you will reach each part of the route. The wind along your direction of travel is averaged into one headwind for the watts. Heat changes how much you should drink, not the watts.

Fuel and drink

Loading before the ride

From research

8 to 10 g of carbs per kg of body weight a day before a long ride, or 5 to 6 g for a short one. Studies pooled in a 2025 review found muscle glycogen tops out once intake passes about 8 g per kg.

One day of loading or two

From research

One day of loading fills a trained rider's glycogen. Rides saddlebag expects to take 4 hours or more get a second day for margin.

Carbs an hour on the bike

From research

About 30 g of carbs an hour for rides of 1 to 2 hours, 60 g up to 2.5 hours and 90 g beyond. The gut absorbs about 90 g an hour at most, and only with a glucose and fructose mix; your pantry's mix sets your ceiling.

The fructose shares that move the ceiling to 75 and 90 g are saddlebag's own cut-offs.

Why effort barely changes the hourly rate

From research

Harder riding burns more carbs, but you cannot absorb more per hour, so the on-bike rate follows how long you ride, with a small step down for easy rides. The extra burn is covered by loading and recovery.

The extra cost of climbing

Published model

Climbing costs extra energy: your weight and the bike's, times gravity, times the height gained, at about 24% efficiency, about 60% of it from carbs. It shows as extra energy for loading, not extra food on the bike.

24% efficiency and the 60% carb share are typical values, not measured for you.

Recovery

From research

1.0 to 1.2 g of carbs per kg each hour for about 4 hours after riding, with 0.3 to 0.4 g of protein per kg, but only when your next hard ride is within about 8 hours. Further away than that, normal meals refill you just as well.

Drinking and sodium

From research

Drink to thirst, about 0.4 to 0.8 L an hour, finishing no more than about 2% lighter and never heavier. On rides of 1.5 hours or more, about 300 to 600 mg of sodium an hour. Overdrinking, not underdrinking, is what causes dangerously low sodium.

Sweat rate from the weather

saddlebag's estimate

saddlebag starts from about 1 L an hour and raises or lowers it with the feels-like temperature and how hard you ride, between 0.4 and 2.5 L an hour.

The steps are saddlebag's own. Sweat rates vary hugely between riders in the same weather, so a sweat test or a watch's sweat-loss reading beats this estimate. The full prediction equation was not used because it over-predicts fluid needs.

Training plan

Training zones

Published model

Sessions are set in zones by share of your FTP, from recovery under 55% to VO₂max at 106 to 120%. The ladder is adapted from Coggan's power levels, with a sweet spot zone at 88 to 93%.

  • Allen H & Coggan A. Training and Racing with a Power Meter. VeloPress.

Intervals and how the weeks are built

From research

Four or six weeks in foundation, build and peak blocks, mostly easy riding with a few hard interval sessions. How hard the plan gets follows how hard the target climb is.

The session blueprints and the link from climb difficulty to plan level are saddlebag's own.

Part wear and service

Manufacturer guidance

Starting lives for parts (chain 3,000 km, brake pads 2,000 km and so on) and service intervals come from manufacturers' manuals and workshop guides. Your own riding, weather and roads change them, so measure wear where you can.

36 sources
  1. Park Tool – When to Replace a Worn ChainChain wear limits: 0.5% (11-speed+), 0.75% (≤10-speed), 1.0% (single-speed); measure, don't count km
  2. BikeRadar – Bicycle chain wear explained0.5%/0.75% chain limits; cassette likely worn at 0.75%/1.0%; distance not an accurate indicator
  3. BikeRadar – 10 ways to make bike components last longerCables yearly, bar tape once or twice a year, rear tyre wears quicker, bearing checks, wash/lube frequency
  4. WatchMy.Bike – How long do bike parts actually last?Lifespan chart: chain, cassette, chainrings, tyres front/rear, pads, cables, bar tape, BB, headset, hubs, sealant
  5. TBS Bike Parts – When to replace MTB partsMTB lifespans: chain, cassette, chainrings, tyres, pads, cables, BB, headset
  6. Schwalbe – Bicycle tire wear FAQStandard tyres 2,000–5,000 km, Marathon 6,000–12,000 km, no useful MTB mileage figure
  7. Continental – Mounting and care instructions, clincher and folding tyres (2018)Replace tyres, tubes and rim strips after three years irrespective of mileage
  8. Shimano Dealer's Manual DM-RADBR10 (road hydraulic disc brakes)Do not use pads at 0.5 mm or less (new 2 mm). Seen via search excerpt; PDF blocked direct fetch
  9. Shimano Dealer's Manual DM-MBDBR01 (Deore disc brakes)Replace pads at 0.5 mm or when oil-contaminated; rotor limit 1.5 mm. Seen via search excerpt; PDF blocked direct fetch
  10. SRAM – Brake maintenance guideDOT bleed at least yearly, mineral oil every two years; pads ≤3 mm incl. backing plate; inspect pads monthly
  11. Canadian Cycling Magazine – Replacing your cassette and chainringsWith chains replaced on time (0.75% wear), a cassette lasts about two to three chain replacements; chainrings last much longer (author has had some pass 25,000 km on road)
  12. Componentry – How long does a bike cassette last?Cassette 10,000–30,000 km by material tier; three-chain rule (app vendor's own estimates)
  13. BikeGremlin – Bicycle maintenance service intervalsChain lube ≈200 km, pressure before every ride, cables yearly (~5,000 km), housing 2 years, bar tape, headset/BB/hubs yearly, fluid yearly, halve for wet/dirty riding
  14. Zero Friction Cycling – FAQ / waxing guidanceRe-wax by around 300 km on road (150–200 km extends chain life); off-road about 8 hours per treatment in good dry conditions
  15. Stan's NoTubes – Tubeless guideTop off Original sealant every 2–7 months; Race Day sealant check every two weeks
  16. Cyclist – Best tubeless sealant (Orange Seal figures)Orange Seal Regular top up about every 1.5 months (six weeks), Endurance about every 3 months (brand claims; Merlin lists Endurance at 60–120 days)
  17. Muc-Off – How and when to add tubeless sealantCheck and top up sealant every 6 months
  18. WatchMy.Bike – Brake fluid 101: when to bleedDOT yearly, mineral oil every 1.5–2 years; bleed immediately if spongy
  19. RockShox 35 (2020–2022) service manualRecommended service intervals: lower leg service every 50 h, damper and spring service every 200 h (text extracted from PDF)
  20. Fox – Bike serviceFork, shock or seat post full factory service every 125 h or yearly, whichever first; sooner for park/DH, mud, dust, e-MTB
  21. Fox Australia – Service intervals125 h/yearly full fork, shock and Transfer service; no separate lowers interval listed
  22. Cardinal Bicycle – Fox service intervalsShop guidance: Fox lowers/air can after 30–50 h (air can 6 months), full overhaul 125 h/annually
  23. Cardinal Bicycle – RockShox service intervalsShop guidance: RockShox lowers and air can 50 h; fork overhaul 100 h older / 200 h newer; shocks 100–200 h by model; yearly rule of thumb
  24. RockShox Super Deluxe (2023+) service manualRecommended service intervals: air can service every 50 h, damper and spring service every 200 h (text extracted from PDF)
  25. Flow Mountain Bike – Understanding suspension service intervals125 h/year ≈ 2.5 h ride per week; frequent riders hit it in about six months
  26. Singletracks – Are you fast or slow?Average trail ride speed 6.98 mph (≈11.2 km/h) from member ride logs (2007)
  27. Fox – 2021–2024 Transfer seatpost owner's guideFull Transfer service (rebuild) every 125 h or yearly, whichever first
  28. RockShox Reverb AXS (2020–2022) service manualEvery 50 h lower-post clean/grease, 200 h service kit (retail kit sold as 200 h / 1 year), 600 h hydraulic service (text extracted from PDF)
  29. DT Swiss – Support FAQHub service once a year; clean and re-grease every 12 months
  30. Schwalbe – Tire pressure FAQCheck pressure at least once a month (before each ride with latex tubes); ~1 bar/month loss normal
  31. Fox – Service procedures (bike)2025–2027 Transfer: 25 h simple grease service, 125 h intermediate service, 300 h full rebuild
  32. WeLoveCycling – How often should I lubricate my bike chain?Lube the chain every 200 km; road in mild conditions up to 300 km; MTB in wet or mud about every 150 km or more often
  33. Bike Clinique – How often should I service my road bike?Full service every 1,500–2,000 miles or 12 months (minimum for a regularly ridden road bike); every 6 months for serious, commuting or winter riders; master service every 3,000+ miles or 2 years
  34. Eastbourne Cycles – How often should a bike be serviced?Service every 6–12 months; annual at 1,000–1,500 miles a year, twice-yearly at 2,000+ miles or winter riding; 3–6 months for heavy or rough-terrain use
  35. Fox – 2025–2027 Transfer seatpost owner's guideService table: 25 h simple grease service, 125 h intermediate service, 300 h / annually full rebuild
  36. Chris King – Boost CL hub manualMaintain hubs every 6–12 months in normal dry conditions, every 3 months in wet or mud; full RingDrive service annually

Last checked 2026-10-19. Forecasts, not guarantees.